2012年5月13日星期日

Paris Top 5 Ami

Illustration by Richard Haines

Arriving in Paris Wednesday night, I went straight from Charles de Gaulle airport to a trés Parisienne apartment off Place de la Republique for the designer Alexandre Mattiussi’s cocktail-party-as-fashion-presentation for Ami. Though Champagne and cigarettes abounded, this was no chic Rive Gauche affair; more like the Williamsburg-on-the-Seine scene of Rue Oberkampf or, as our in-the-know illustrator Richard Haines said: “So Bushwick L train/Morgan stop.” So true. It was an über-groovy crowd — hard to discern the models from the viewers — and a perfect welcome to the final leg of the European fashion show season. What’s more, it heralded the arrival of this new French sportswear brand, following the model of A.P.C., with its cult following and affordable prices. Quirky outfits like short leather bombers and trim tweed coats layered over colored sweaters and clashing untucked shirts (with the odd floral or plaid here and there) felt more like great personal style statements than forced fashion. A bright-eyed bearded fellow wore a tee with a floralized bearded fellow on it, along with a harvest-colored houndstooth vest, matching carrot-cut pants (imagine a slightly dropped crotch with full legs that narrow at the cuff) and a tonal, double-breasted plaid coat; an amusing outfit with Parisian charm that had me at “Bon soir.”

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